Savai'i
island is one of the largest islands in
Polynesia but one of its least populated.
It's an untouched and pristine island showing
few western influences and the people of
Savai'i have maintained a way of life even
more traditional than Upolu. There are any
number of first class beaches on Savai'i
and the places that aren't good for swimming
are perfect for snorkelling. If you get
sick of the beaches, the reefs, and the
laid back life of a beachcomber, the interior
of Savai'i is just as interesting.
The island is just 20km northwest of Upolu
across the Apolima Strait. It has only two
fifths the population of Upolu despite being
one and a half times the size. In fact Savai'i
is the largest island in Polynesia outside
of Hawaii and New Zealand.
Much
of the fertile land was buried in the eruptions
of Mt Matavanu between 1905 and 1911, transforming
the northern side of the island and causing
the people to move to Upolu. However, the
beautiful tropical rainforests are still
home to many exotic birds.
Traditional
Samoan villages line the coast of the island,
but there is no main town like Apia and
public transport is scarce. There are very
few taxis and rental cars need to be arranged
in advance.
On
the east coast, north of Saleologa wharf
is the Rev. John Williams Memorial, a tribute
to the first Christian Missionary who arrived
in 1830. The beautiful lagoon at Lano village
is well worth a visit and there is great
surfing on Lano's beach and snorkelling
at nearby Faga. Eight kilometres away in
Letolo Plantation is the Pulemelei stone
pyramid, the largest remaining monument
in Polynesia, as well as an idyllic waterfall
and pool.
Along
the southwest coast are a series of spectacular
blowholes just a short walk from Taga village.
Not just another set of blowholes, there's
little to equal them anywhere else in the
world. Deserted Fagatele Beach lies in the
vicinity of Faleaupo-tai where the villagers
can be seen wood-carving adjacent to the
Catholic church. Olemoe Falls, also in the
south, is a lovely jungle waterfall that
plunges into the crystalline waters of a
deep blue pool, which is marvellous for
swimming and diving.
On
the north coast is lovely Papa village and
further east one should stop for a swim
at Matavai's fresh water spring or at Safotu's
freshwater pools. Inland from Paia village
is the 'short people's cave' where midgets
are said to live. A two to three hour walk
will bring you to Mt Matavanu, the source
of the 1905-11 volcanic outbreak, which
is well worth a visit, as are the massive
barren lava fields at Saleuala and Aopo.
The Matavanu lava fields, formed when the
volcano spewed and belched molten lava for
nearly six years back in the early 1900s,
is now an impressive moonscape, and a walk
around the crater of the volcano is a must
for archeological buffs.
The Tafua Rainforest Preserve is one of
the most beautiful and accessible stands
of rainforest with rugged stretches of lava
coast studded with caves and lava blowholes.
The other rainforest on Savai'i is the Falealupo
Preserve, which has a walkway canopy at
the top of a stately banyan tree. For a
few extra tala you can eat and sleep up
there too.
You
can get to Savai'i either by air, with flights
from Fagali'i Airport in Apia, landing at
Ma'ota airport on the south-east of the
island, or by boat which runs between Mulifanua
Wharf on Upolu and Salelologa on Savai'i.
Be aware that the ferry service between
Upolu and Savai'i is erratic, depending
on the weather and number of passengers,
so although the trip is only one and a half
hours, don't plan to make it back for an
international flight.